Advice for Trekking the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal

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Trekking Advice For The Annapurna Circuit

Sure, you know about those gigantic mountains called the Himalaya Range, which formed a brief 40-50 million years ago after the Indian and Eurasian continents collided. You may also know that magnitude of the collision resulted in the birth of Everest (8,848 m), the highest mountain peak on the planet.

But did you know that, rather than risking your life attempting to summit Everest, you could comfortably trek around Nepal’s neighboring mountain peaks?

The Annapurna massif contains six mountain peaks, including Annapurna I, Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna, and Annapurna South – each containing personality, charm, and a stunning silhouette.

My wife and I trekked this wonderful journey last year, and would like to share our advice for those heading to Nepal.

First off, some basic facts and info…

The Annapurna circuit is a 17-21 day trek that horseshoes around towering Annapurna mountain peaks. It begins in the southeastern town of Khudi (790 m), snakes north to the highest point of Thorung-La Pass (5416 m), descends southwest and down to the hot springs in Tatopani (1,200 m), challenges you again with a steep climb to Poon Hill (3200 m), and rounds out to NayaPui (1070 m).

While most people chose to trek in this direction, some brave souls attempt to hike going the opposite direction enduring an extremely steep climb when crossing the Thorung La Pass in very thin air.

The best season to trek the circuit are Fall (Oct-Nov) and Spring (Apr-May). If you chose to hike outside of these months you risk encountering harsh weather which can lead to dangerous trekking conditions.

Most travelers will arrive in Nepal via Kathmandu (make sure you visit the iconic temples of Kathmandu), but it is important to note that you can also find cheap flights to India and land cross into Nepal at the Sunauli border crossing.

Why you should hike the Annapurna…

Top five countdown on why the Annapurna Circuit is one of the best treks in the world (if not the best):

5. The trek covers every terrain imaginable from 790 meters all the way to the towering 5,416 meters – the same altitude some aircraft fly

4. You can hire a Sherpa to carry all of your belongings. While not really necessary – most hikers carry their own belongings – you still have the option if you need help or want some company

3. You get to sleep in cozy and somewhat clean guest houses along the way. Almost all villages have a few guest houses to choose from, but most offer the same single bed, cold to warm shower, and shared toilet. But for $1 – $3, who’s complaining?

2. You get to enjoy Dal Baht (a simple dish of lentals, rice, and something pickled) and hot ginger lemon tea from charming tea houses all along the way

1. You get a photo shoot at the top of Thorung La Pass (5416 m) looking somewhat like Santa Clause with a bright red face that’s puffed and chapped from dry air and elevation.

Now for the Downsides…

With all popular tourist destinations come repercussions. The constant influx of people, resources, and money has begun to alter the charisma once so special to the Annapurna region.

This demand has triggered more and more development over the years. While this might seem great to tourists because they now have nicer accommodations, better trails, and more traveling options, it is slowly diminishing the culture, traditions, and people that once new it as their local village.

This development can clearly be seen a couple days after you cross Thorung La Pass, in the bustling village of Jomsom (the closest town to the peak) where dirt roads have been developed. Where once the trail would go on for around 80 kilometers to NayaPui in peaceful tranquility, dirt roads have now been developed and hikers must share the road with jeeps that pass every few minutes.

The sad part is that only a few jeeps are used to carry food and supplies into the local villages; most jeeps carry tourists who couldn’t plan a few extra days in their itinerary to finish the entire hike. What’s worse is that the small villages are now being overlooked because visitors whiz past in the jeeps.

What to expect from the trek…

Starting in Khudi (on the Eastern side), the first part of the trek is peaceful and lush. You’ll follow the Marsyangdi River and cross several questionable bridges, pass through rice paddies, and snap some great shots of dramatic waterfalls. If the weather is hot and the ground muddy, keep an eye out for little leeches.

As you start to gain elevation, you’ll start to settle into a simpler way of life like the locals – modest, hardworking, and genuinely good people. In the town of Manang, plan an extra day to get acclimated to the elevation. There are some great day hikes providing views of mountains, lakes, and other villages.

As the blisters form and you make your way higher with each passing step, the terrain starts to change. The air feels dry and thin, trees disappear, and prayer flags become plentiful, reminding you why you are there in the first place.

The bare mountains, small shards of black rocks and patches of snow on Thorung-La Pass make if feel as though you are taking your first steps on the moon. At the top, many people chose to take a picture in front of a sign that states your accomplishment of hiking 5,416 meters. The harsh winds, weather, and altitude won’t let you linger there long.

After a quick and rapid decent to Muktinath (on the Western side) enjoy a celebratory beer and just relax. You deserve it! The rest is pretty much downhill until you reach Tatopani where you can sit in the natural hot springs and rest your weathered body.

Just when you thought it was over, another 2,000 meter climb up Poon Hill which promises the most beautiful sunrise in the world. Finish up the trek, by walking down over 3,000 stone steps. Your thighs are burned, but take heart: at least you didn’t have to climb them.

Hiking the Annapurna is a wonderful trek for experienced hikers, and an incredible introduction for newbies. It remains a world-class hiking destination, but with increased development, it may not last much longer.

If you’re debating between Nepal and elsewhere, my advice is to enjoy this trek while you still can.

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Have you hiked the Annapurna Circuit? Care you share your tips with our readers?
Share your experience in the comments section below!

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Author bio: Adam Costa is a travel writer and author of the book Business In A Backpack. An avid cyclist, he also manages Italy Bike Tours, which provides self-guided travel info for cycling in Italy.

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