The Holy City of Varanasi and the Sacred Ganges River
“Benaras (Varanasi) is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together” – Mark Twain
Varanasi, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, was the first stop on our travels through Northern India. Everyone we talked to had interesting feedback about travel in India, leading us to believe that the coming month was going to be challenging.
As they say, “You cannot call yourself a world traveler until you experience India”.
We didn’t appreciate the true meaning of this statement until several months after leaving India.
The border crossing from Nepal to India was an adventure on its own. We spent the entire day and night taking various methods of transportation, including two taxis, three rickshaws, three buses and an overnight train. It was quite the ordeal.
Our overnight train arrived in the darkness of early morning, not an ideal time to start looking for hotel accommodations but it all worked out in the end. The lesson learned – money talks in India!
The culture and pulse of Varanasi is closely tied to the sacred waters of the Ganges River, which has drawn billions of devote worshipers over thousands of years. Think about that for a moment.
The Ganga Ghats (a series of stairs that line the river banks) are full of pilgrims who flock to the Ganges River to take a dip in its holy waters, believed to absolve one from all of life’s sins. You don’t have to walk too far to find an ancient temple or shrine that dates back several hundred years.
It is literally a living outdoor museum.
The Ganges River is the centre piece of life, and death, in the spiritual city. Hindus believe one can obtain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and re-birth by dying in the holy land of Varanasi, which is why there are hundreds of daily human cremations at the Burning Ghats that rest on the river banks.
It’s hard to describe the feelings we had while watching human bodies’ burn right in front of us.
The unmistakable smell of burning flesh, the heartbreaking sounds of grieving family members in mourning, the thick clouds of black smoke that fill the air, and of course, the hundreds of curious eyes that stared at us during the death ritual.
It was awkward and uncomfortable. We felt that our presence as tourists was unwelcomed, as if we were invading the family’s privacy during such an emotional and personal time. We agreed, knowing that we would likely feel the same way if the tables were turned. We respected their space and decided it was best to leave.
The photo above was taken from an old wooden rowboat that we hired to take us up river at sunset. It provides an interesting perspective of the human cremations at the Burning Ghats on the Ganga River. When the bodies have completely burned, the ashes are swept into the holy river.
Although the holy river is a lifelong destination for many, it is also said to be the most heavily polluted river in the world. It didn’t take us long to see why. Toxic sewage and garbage is funneled directly into the river from the chaotic city above, with little regard for its environmental impact. Livestock bathes in the murky waters as the ashes and remains of cremated humans slowly float downstream.
Even with the toxic residue and garbage floating on the surface, thousands of people still bathe and drink the water, “cleansing” themselves of their sins. It’s easy for us to develop an opinion on this potentially fatal practice of drinking sewage water, but who are we to cast judgment on a ritual that has taken place for thousands of years.
Above: Laundry drying on the Ghats
Above: A young boy delivering food to the local fisherman at the river harbour
Above: The bustling streets of Varanasi in the old quarter
Above: Views of daily street life from the rooftop of our hotel
Above: A family flying kites in the evening from the rooftop of their building.
The skies fill with colourful kites at sunset, a popular family activity
Above: A monkey strategizing where his next meal will come from.
We quickly realized that the residents don’t like the monkeys very much!
Above: A popular Chai House across the street from our hotel
Below: Children playing cricket in the old quarters of the city, the Ganges in the backdrop
We are not religious people, but as we wandered around the congested labyrinth of Varanasi’s Old City and sat on the dusty Ghats that line the banks of the Ganges, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of spirituality.
Though tourism has become increasingly important, and street touts relentlessly try to sell you anything and everything, the city still manages to hold tight to its rich culture and time-honoured traditions. We were, and are, thankful for this.
There are several images that come to mind when we reflect on our time in India’s holiest city. Clearly, the sight of a burning body is not easily erased from our minds. Ironically, death is very much a part of life in Varanasi.
But our most memorable moments were spent on the rooftop of our hotel, where the street-level chaos disappears and families gather on the rooftops to share a meal, socialize, pray and fly kites. The soothing Muslim call to prayer vibrates off the buildings and echoes across the city. Children laugh, fathers smile with pride. Everything becomes peaceful and calm.
It was during those special moments that we felt the spirit of India.
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Have you visited India? What are your most memorable moments?
Share your stories in the comments section below!
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Aggh, I am so glad I stayed here in South America but every amazing post I read about India is like twisting the dagger in my heart. I will definitely go at some point, it’s too amazing to pass up.
My husband says he has no interest in going so I’m sure I’ll be looking for a travel companion whenever the time comes 🙂
I didn’t have a lot of interest in going either, and resisted it leading up to our arrival.
It’s certainly not for every one, but it will really give you that unique travel experience!
Hopefully you’ll get a chance to visit India someday. It’s unlike any other country we’ve been too, cliche I know, but there really is no other culture or country that is comparable.
My sister-in-law was telling me recently about her experiences in India and the Ganges so this post was a fascinating expansion on that. She was told that, in what seems to be a reversal of logic, people who die of diseases aren’t cremated. Instead, their bodies are wrapped up and thrown into the river. She said they were floating everywhere. Did you see this? I hope to go to India one day.
I’ve heard similar stories about wrapped bodies floating down the river. Fortunately we didn’t see this, not sure how I would handle seeing a dead body floating down river!
It’frightening to think that people drink and bathe in waters that have dead bodies in it, but that’s just me.
Greetings!
I have been living in India for Past 22 years.
I have never heard of the fact which you have mentioned. Every 1 who dies(natural, disease or any other way)is properly cremated. Probably If you visit India you will never see bodies floating on the river, because this is not true. Ganges is a very holy river and Indians have a deep respect of It.People come here for Puja(Prayer).
Hope this post gives you a true picture, and you are most welcome to explore India.
I completely agree with your photograph above “the ashes are swept into the holy river” so that the soul may rest in peace.
Powerful and beautiful photographs India looks like an amazing place and your post just reinforces this. I don’t know how I would react in seeing the cremation ceremonies, but I am certain it would be the same as you felt, awkward and uncomfortable.
It really is an amazing place, though I must confess that it took leaving the country to fully appreciate it. It will push your comfort zone, that’s for sure!
Great post! These beautiful photos certainly took me back and had me remembering the smells and sounds of this holy and almost haunting city. There really is nowhere like Varanasi.
Agreed – it’s really is a one of a kind place.
I like your description of the city being “haunting”. I think that was a word I was looking for when trying to portray the death that surrounds you when walking along the river Ghats.
Very interesting ceremony. I don’t have much interest in visiting India, but in a weird way I’m looking forward to being slowly convinced otherwise. What does a burning human body smell like? (curious — but not in a sick, twisted way, really)
I must confess that I didn’t have a lot of interest in India before traveling there. Having visited, I can say with conviction that everyone must visit India at least once in their life!
Hard to describe the burning body smell. Lots of oils and flowers used in the ceremony. Haven’t smelled anything like it since.
Oh, your photos brought back such powerful memories of my visit to Varanasi.
I couldn’t see the charm of the place for the first few days but when it was time to leave I really didn’t want to go.
I tried to watch a cremation. I was told the locals didn’t mind. I was up in an abandoned palace, looking down at the ghats. I had to leave when the shroud started burning away and I could see the old guy’s feet – they looked just like my granddad’s.
I also took a quick dip in the Ganges, but much much further upriver. A floating thing bumped my leg and I screamed and leapt out of the water. I’m sure it was a stick but because of the stories I’d heard about not-fully cremated bodies being thrown in the water, I didn’t want to stay in the water with whatever it was.
Swimming in the Ganges – you are brave! 😉
We had the same feeling about Varanasi when it was time to leave. It took us a few days to deal with the initial culture shock of being in India, but it definitely grew on us.
Great post guys! We did not go to Varanasi while in India, so I can only imagine the scene having at least traveled in other parts of the country. While I am definitely curious and would like to go there someday, I also question my reasoning for wanting to go. It’s somewhat of a morbid curiosity of seeing something that I think of as so different and odd from what I know. But hey, that’s India for you. It’s the one place on Earth we’ve been that is so totally different than any other place. But that’s the draw, for us. I have to say that while we were actually there, it was easily the most difficult place to travel, but it was also the one that I probably enjoyed the least. But I have this strange and odd yearning to go back again, moreso than most other places we’ve been. It’s a crazy place, that India.
Thanks Adam!
We felt the same way.There were several moments when we just wanted out, never to return again! But when we reflect back on our travels to India we forget the painful periods and remember the pure moments. Funny how almost every traveler we’ve met has a similar “love-hate” relationship with India! 🙂
I have been to India once and we had an amazing time! Like you said though, it can be quite a challenge and also a big culture shock if you don’t know what to expect! But never the less, some where everyone should visit
Agreed! It’s unlike any where else on the planet.
Wow, there are so many emotional things going on in your photos, I would imagine it to be sensory overload, but such a full experience.
It was definitely sensory overload. Especially having never traveled to the region before.
Excellent article and account of Varanasi – it’s almost other worldly for the visitor. I agree with your statement – even if one is not spiritual, one feels spiritual there because of all the history and devotion.
Thanks for the kind words Kristin!
Great post!!! I haven’t been to India but am dying to go. You post really shows a slice of real life on Varanasi.
Thanks Ruth! Hopefully you’ll get a chance to experience India soon 😉
A little envious. Varanasi has been on my list for soooo long…
Great post.
Thanks Robin, glad you like the post! 😉
That’s funny that the residents don’t like monkeys… I’d love to find one just sitting on my terrace like that. Gorgeous photos!
We had the same opinion the first day we saw the monkies, but quickly learned that the locals can’t stand them. They chase them around with brooms and throw rocks at them!
We were told its because the monkies are like pests and steal their food and crops. A lot like raccoons in North America.
Such a fascinating look at Varansai. I can’t get over the cremations taking place in public, that would be strange. Also loved the kite flying from a roof top instead of on a grass and I personally love monkeys, but I’m sure they can be aggressive when it comes to food.
The kite flying in the evenings was a pleasant surprise. It was so cool to watch hundreds of colourful kites filling up the sky. India has a way of surprising its visitors! 😉
Thank you for sharing your experience about India. Well Rishikesh and Haridwar are also a worth visiting place.
Thanks for the tips, we didn’t get a chance to visit either place – maybe next time!
Just found this post. It’s lovely. I was in Varanasi just recently and yep, it made a pretty indelible impression on me as well. It was one of my favorite stops in all of India.
Regarding the bodies, I had heard that they float non-creamated cloth-wrapped bodies down the river as well but I didn’t see any the whole time I was there. I did see them dipping the wrapped bodies in the river before they loading them onto the pyres though, which essentially has the same effect, especially when there’s bathers literally 100 feet down river, but Mother Ganga protects, so they say.
The sight of the burning ghats entranced me. I watched them for some time every night and couldn’t get over that ritual. The family carries them down, dips them, loads them up and lights them. Then they stand around and watch as their loved one gets consumed back into the atmosphere. And it all happens with very little evident emotion.
Your photo does show three pyres burning at once. I saw 7 at one time at one point. But people choose to be cremated by the Ganges long before they die – there’s is even a hospice next to the main burning ghat that’s filled with people who will soon be cremated right there. Pretty creepy, but for them it’s life, and death, and it tunes them in with the great cycle. There really isn’t any other way to do it as far as they’re concerned.
Thanks guys, for bringing me back to my time there. It was pretty enlightening to say the least.
The feeling you get from being there is indescribable. Everyone needs to visit at some point. Great story.
OKay, I don’t think I’ll be going to India, period – for some reason, unlike the rest of the world, it doesn’t interest me too much. I haven’t yet figured out why. This burning body thing would really bother me, I am sure. The closest I’ve come to burning bodies was visiting the World Trade Center in NYC shortly after September 11. I could smell that sickeningly sweet smell which people say is the scent of burning flesh. I don’t want to repeat the experience.
When we thought about going to India we were conflicted. We had similar views before going, but we are so happy we did. India is very unique.
That’s a nice travelogue with a lot of details..Loved reading and photos are excellent…
Thanks for shearing it.
Thanks!
i was in varanasi (on my 6th month of backpacking last 2009) when i received the news from my family that my grandma died… she’s the one who sort of “adopted” and raised me… it was surreal to have been seeing dead bodies being cremated for a few days and to have someone in your family die… i immediately booked my tickets back then so i could catch the funeral… i remember crying on the concrete seats when some indian children approached me… i felt them holding my hand and started drawing something… i said sorry to them that i could not pay them for the artwork their painting on my hand… then they started laughing and said its free… i will never forget varanasi… and im coming back next year after my southeast asian travels this year…
Wow, thats a story. We are very sorry to hear about your grandma.Hope you have a great time in Southeast asia.
Great post. To think that I still have to visit India and I don’t know yet when I will make it. I am pretty sure though that this post has embeded Varanasi in my mind and will stay there until I visit.
Thanks Frederico! Yes, Varanasi is definitely a place that cannot be duplicated. We hope to return someday in the future, though I doubt much will have changed!
Hello fellow Canucks! As you know, I specialize in writing about India and I have been to Varanasi and have written about it several times. It’s hard to capture the incredible feeling of the world’s oldest city, and I enjoyed your post and photos. One thing, though: you are not supposed to take photos of the burning ghats. It is considered disrespectful.
I will be leading a small group tour to spiritual India this winter, including Varanasi. It will be interesting to see the city through the eyes of the group as most of them will be going to India for the first time.
For me, it;’s the most fascinating place on earth. But I know you have to be ready to go.
Cheers, thanks for writing about my favourite country (after Canada)!
Hi Mariellen,
Thanks for the kind words.Your tour sounds like it will be quite the experience for both you and your guests. It should be interesting to see how they react to visiting India for the first time – especially in Varanasi.
We were informed not to take photos of the burning ghats and had discipline during our visits throughout the day. But, we couldn’t help ourselves when we were on the evening boat trip up the Ganges. Hopefully our karma is good enough to have that one photo overlooked! 😉
Great post! We’re also going to India next month and Varanasi is on our list. We have an Indian friend who also loves to travel, and even he himself considers Varanasi as one of the most memorable places he’s been to. He tells us that reading about it and watching videos on the web can never fully describe the morbidity and spirituality of the place. So we should really experience it first hand.
Thanks for sharing your stories and photos. We can’t wait to visit and experience India. 🙂
It looks fascinating, if not very clean. I keep flip-flopping on wanting to go. On the one hand it looks interesting, but on the other hand the experiences I’ve had with East Indians in North American turns me off. Perhaps one day I’ll have the opportunity to go with someone who knows the ropes and can help me negotiate the seething masses of humanity to find the good stuff.
I went to Varanassi in 2007, 2nd time to India and first travelling as a couple. Delhi and paharganj was an onslaught, but Varanassi was a whole new level. From the 2 of us getting violently sick to the man dying on the steps of the railway station as we left. I think Varanassi is a test of faith, and it will test you ! If you are looking for a gentle intro to India I’d recommend somewhere like dharamshala
This is what I expected, but had never seen before, when reading about India. Why don’t other travel bloggers mention the following? :
http://www.chinasmack.com/2010/pictures/filthy-india-photos-chinese-netizen-reactions.html
Hi, guys you all of you thank u very mych for visit india & also varansi, i read all of your reviews gaga is our mother rever like a god , & dead body which u all are talking is like over old people mentaliti or old faith so they are doing this but because than after the water of ganga is pure
awesome place
Hindu mythology, the one WHO take their last breath here or the one WHO dies here or fire on the land of Varanasi can get free from the cycle of rebirth.