Starting the Camino Frances from Leon to Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Starting the Camino de Santiago in Leon, Spain

Are you planning to walk the famous Camino France but don’t have enough time to start in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port? You’re not alone. Most people are unable to spend 5-6 weeks walking across Spain, which means finding an alternative starting point. That’s the reason why I started my Camino Frances from Leon.

One of the great things about the Camino de Santiago, and specifically the Camino Frances, is that you can start the walk at a variety of places.

I had 3 weeks to complete my Camino experience. This includes flying from Vancouver to Madrid (travel day plus jet lag) and adding time to explore Santiago de Compostela and Madrid after completing the Camino de Santiago.

Realistically, this gives me approx. 16 to 18 days to walk my Camino.

I assumed my daily walking distance would be between 20 to 25 kms. Therefore, when I calculate over 16 to 18 days, the distance is between 320 km to 450 km (200 to 280 miles).

The main cities on the Camino Frances between these distances are Burgos and Leon.

The distance from Burgos to Santiago de Compostela is about 500 kms (310 miles). I did not feel it was realistic to complete 500 km in 18 days, including 1 or 2 rest days.

This leaves Sahagún, considered the halfway point on the Camino Francés, and León as the most logical starting points for my Camino.

Why start the Camino Frances from Leon?

The main reason why I started my Camino in Leon, instead of Sahagún, is due to accessibility. My flight from Vancouver arrives in Madrid. Therefore, I need to organize transportation from Madrid to Leon.

The high-speed train from Madrid to Leon takes only 2 hours. It’s a direct train with multiple departure times each day.

Starting in León means you’re approx. 311 kilometers (194 miles) from Santiago de Compostela. This distance typically takes 2 weeks to complete, depending on pace and how many rest days you take.

Leon is ideal for pilgrims who want a meaningful Camino experience without committing to the full 800 km from the French border.

The city is well-equipped with many hotels, albergues (pilgrim hostels), restaurants, pharmacies, gear shops, and you can get your pilgrim passport here. I purchased my pilgrim passport at the tourism office located directly in front of the Leon Cathedral (Santa María de Regla de León Cathedral).

Casa Botines (built 892), a modernista building in León, designed by Antoni Gaudí

Camino Frances from León to Santiago de Compostela

Below is my itinerary for the Camino Frances from Leon. I’ve included links to short Instagram reels and Facebook posts that I made for each segment.

León to Villavante (Molino Galochas) – 32 km
Villavante to Astorga (via Hospital de Orbigo) – 20 km
Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 21 km
Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo de San Miguel (Cruz de Ferro) – 16 km
El Acebo de San Miguel to Ponferrada (via Molinaseca) – 16 km
Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo – 23 km
Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias – 20 km
Las Herrerías to O Cebreiro – 10 km – REST DAY
O Cebreiro to Triacastela – 21 km
Triacastela to Sarria (via Samos) – 25 km
Sarria to Portomarin – 22 km
Portomarín to Palas de Rei – 25 km
Palas de Rei to Arzua – 29 km
Arzua to Amenal – 20 km
Amenal to Santiago de Compostela – 16 km

You can shorten or extend each stage based on your pace and desired distance. Distances are approximate.

Highlights on the Camino Frances from Leon and Santiago de Compostela includes the ancient Bridge of Hospital de Órbigo, Astorga Cathedral, Episcopal Palace of Astorga, Cruz de Ferro, Templars Castle of Ponferrada, mountain village of O Cebreiro, Monastery of San Xulián de Samos, and Portomarín Church.

Benefits of starting the Camino Frances from Leon

Manageable distance (Approx. 310 km to Santiago) – it can be completed in two weeks.
Ideal for first-time pilgrims. It’s long enough to be spiritually and physically rewarding, and short enough to fit into a typical vacation timeframe.
León is a beautiful historic city. Plan to arrive a day or two early and spend time exploring the walkable Old Town. Watch this short video.
Beautiful landscapes and towns. The path takes you into the lush hills of Galicia, past iconic Camino towns like Astorga, Ponferrada, Villafranca del Bierzo and O Cebreiro.
Pilgrim infrastructure. The Camino Frances from Leon to Santiago de Compostela is well-traveled and has excellent services, including many hotels, albergues (pilgrim hostels), cafés, rest stops, and restaurants.
Easily accessible by train or bus from Madrid or other major cities.

Tips for Walking the Camino Francés

Pack Light. Really Light.

Bring only what you absolutely need. A good rule of thumb is that your backpack should weigh no more than 10% of your body weight. Bring less clothing than you think; you can wash your clothes along the way.

Start early each morning.

Walking in the morning is cooler and more peaceful. The air is clean and the birds sing. This is my favourite time on the Camino.

Some people start moving as early as 5:00 AM. That’s a little aggressive for my liking. I was typically on the road between 7:00-7:30 AM.

As long as you’re on the trail by 8:00 AM, you’ll enjoy the morning and finish by early afternoon (depending on your pace and distance). If you’re staying at an albergue, you’ll typically have more options for choice of bed if you arrive shortly after 1:00 PM.

Hydrate Constantly.

Carry a reusable water bottle or hydration bladder. Drink water before you set off in the morning and plan to drink water every hour or so, especially if you’re doing the Camino in the summer.

You will find free water refill stations along the trail. Refill every chance you get, especially in rural areas.

Your shoes are your best friend.

Invest in proper shoes for your Camino. Trail runners or lightweight hiking shoes are sufficient. You don’t need heavy hiking boots for this walk.

Running shoes are also fine, but know that there are some steep sections with loose rocks.

Make sure you break-in your shoes before you start your walk.

Get proper socks, too. Double layer socks and merino wool socks will help reduce moisture and friction.

Find your rhythm. It’s not a race.

There is no right way to do the Camino. Some people walk fast and far. Some people take it slow and steady.

If you start the Camino Frances from Leon it will take between 13-18 days, depending on your pace and how many rest days you take.

Remember, it’s not about how fast you get to Santiago de Compostela. Whether you walk 10 km or 40 km in one day, it’s your Camino.

Stop at an outdoor cafe and enjoy a cafe con leche or cold beer. Take photos often. Spend time in a small church. Sit on a bench and breath the fresh air.

Budget and Money.

Bring more cash than you think you’ll need. Don’t rely exclusively on plastic and digital wallets.

Accommodations will account for most of your budget.

The cheapest accommodations are albergues, which are budget accommodation specifically for pilgrims. They offer simple, dormitory-style lodging, often with shared bathrooms and communal areas.

Municipal albergues are the most affordable (and basic). No reservations. First come, first serve. Price ranges from 5-10 euros per night.

Private albergues are most comfortable and typically have more amenities like Wi-Fi, laundry, private rooms, and an onsite restaurant or bar. Prices range from 10-20 euros per night.

Hostales/pensiones are budget guesthouses that offer more privacy, including private rooms with private bathrooms. Prices range from 25-75 euros per night, depending on the location and time or year.

Casa rurales (rural guesthouses) are cozy, charming, traditional Spanish homes located in small villages or countryside. They often include dinner and breakfast. Prices range from 30-80 euros per night.

I stayed at a rural guesthouse – here’s a quick video from my stay.

Hotels and Paradores (historic hotels, often located in converted castles, monasteries, or palaces) are the most luxurious. Not for budget travelers. Prices range from 100-300 euros per night.

I spent my final night in Santiago de Compostela at a parador. Here’s a quick video about my stay.