Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru
When we reflect on our travels through South America there are a few moments that stand out from the rest. One of the greatest accomplishments from our trip around the world was hiking the Inca Trail to the treasured city of Machu Picchu.
The Inca Trail is a 40-km (25 mile) hike through the Peruvian Andes that consists of three high passes, one of which reaches an elevation of 4,200m (13,776 ft). We booked a tour with GAP Adventures (know known as simply G Adventures) that included a trip to the Amazon Rainforest, where we spotted this unique creature.
Day 1 started off early, leaving the comforts of our Cusco hotel at 6 am with Umberto, our local guide. We were supposed to have five people in our group, unfortunately two got very ill the night before so they were unable to make the trek (tip – don’t eat hamburgers in Cusco). So, then there were three.
“Reflecting on our 4-day hike, it was a truly amazing accomplishment for us. Years ago it was a dream. But that morning, the dream became a reality…”
We had mixed emotions about having such a small group. On the one hand, extra pampering and personal care is always good. On the other, it’s nice to meet new people and share the experience. But when we saw a neighbouring group of 48 people with 56 porters, we realized that our group of three translated into 5-star treatment.
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| From Peru |
It’s a 3-hour ride through the Sacred Valley to the small Andean town of Ollantaytambo, overlooking the beautiful Urubamba River Valley. This is where we met our porters and gathered the supplies needed for the 4-day trek. Because we were supposed to have five people plus guide, we ended up with 11 porters.
We felt VERY spoiled but knew that if the extra 4 porter’s did not come they would not receive their salary. We felt bad for the Australian couple that couldn’t make the trek, it must have been super disappointing.
Day 1 was the easiest (in comparison to the other days) with a 4-hour hike to our first camping site, Wayllabamba. Our remarkable porters carried loads of up to 25kg and flew past us during the entire four days of trekking. These guys are amazing!
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| From Peru |
Here’s how the scenario goes: we start hiking, the porters blaze past us, they set up a hot lunch, we eat lunch, we start hiking again, the porters tear down camp and pack up, they blaze past us on the trail yet again, then have camp already set up before we arrive – seriously!
The food was always good and started with a delicious homemade Peruvian soup. Over the 4-days we enjoyed fish, chicken, spaghetti, pancakes, vegetable pasta and even a freshly baked cake on our last day.
Baking a cake over an open flame is an impressive skill!
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| From Peru |
We weren’t sure what to expect on Day 2.
We were told it was the hardest day, and that it was straight uphill. Our guide Umberto was not lying, though we wish he was at times.
Starting at 7:00 am, it was a 5-hour hike to Warmiwañusca, also known as Dead Woman’s Pass. At 4,200 m (13769 ft), this pass is the highest point of the trek.
The first 3-hours were stone stairs that passed through beautiful rain forest landscapes, before resting in an open area at the base of Dead Woman´s Pass.
“Muscles aching, legs not responding, we approached the Sun Gate with uncontrollable excitement and anticipation…”
The last two hours were extremely deceiving. At first glance, it seems like an easy hour hike. It turned out to be a grueling 2-hours straight up with very thin air – we thought it’d never end!
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| From Peru |
Legs heavy, hearts pounding and breath short, we reached the 4,200m pass and were instantly treated to stunning views of the cloud forest below. After a short break, it was a 2-hour decent down steep, slippery stairs. We’re still undecided on which direction is more painful – up or down.
Our second campsite was at Paqaymayo, nestled on the mountain side at 3,200m. Needless to say, after 11 km of straight up and down, it was a very early night!
Travel Tip – bring a pair of sandals or flip flops for the evenings. Your feet will thank you.
We were looking forward to Day 3 because of the many archaeological sights we were going to pass. The prize at the end of the trail, the lost Incan capital Machu Picchu, was always on our mind, but some of the ruins along the way were equally spectacular.
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Day 1 we passed two ruins: Salapunku and Llactapata. Day 2 we stayed just below Wayllabamba. Day 3 we saw Runkuraqay, Sayacmarca, and Phuyupatamarca. Witnessing these other treasures is what separates the popular Inca Trail from the other trekking options in the region.
Sore and tired, we started again at 7:00 am. With another exhausting hike in front of us, we reached Runkuraqay Pass at 3,800m. Day 3 was 16km of steep climbs and sharp descents.
Compound that with the previous two days of sore muscles and we earned the cold beer that awaited us at our final campsite in Winaywaynaonly. The campground has an old hostel where cold beer and hot showers can be purchased.
We camped in the low range that borders the Amazon rain forest, creating a unique landscape that shifted from jagged and dry mountains to lush and moist jungle.
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| From Peru |
Umberto, our guide, took us to a lesser known archaeological site located a short hike outside our campground. Not many people visit this site because of fatigue after the long 16km, but it is well worth the extra energy. The archaeological site was the most spectacular we´d seen up to that point.
For what it’s worth, Umberto thinks these ruins are more beautiful than Machu Picchu (see above picture).
Our final day started at Intipunku before sunrise. The weather was terrible; solid rain with a hot, sticky humidity. Imagine our horror. After 3 days of beautiful sunny weather, we are within striking distance of Machu Picchu and it’s raining!!
We hiked in treacherous, slippery conditions for 2-hours in complete darkness before reaching the notorious Sun Gate. Muscles aching, legs not responding, we approached the Sun Gate with uncontrolable excitement and anticipation.
We turned the corner and there she was, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Our reward after days of exhausting trekking… the legendary, majestic Incan city of Machu Picchu!
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| From Peru |
BUT, to our disappointment, the weather was not cooperating and handed us heavy clouds and terrible visibility. Umberto was quick to say, “Just wait 10 more minutes, you’ll see”.
So we took off our rain ponchos and waited. Sure enough, within minutes and almost on command, the clouds parted and the sun came out.
It was like the Incan Gods heard our prayers!
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| From Peru |
Reflecting on our 4-day hike, it was a truly amazing accomplishment for us (this is the tour company we booked with). Years ago it was a dream, but that morning, the dream had finally become a reality.
It is one of the best things that we have ever done as a couple. It pushed us, challenged us, and rewarded us greatly!
Read more – There’s MUCH more to Peru than Machu Picchu?
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Have you visited Machu Picchu? What did you think?
Share your experience in the comments section below.
When I was in Peru I didn’t make it to Machu Picchu because I ran out of time. I’ve always known that I will save this excursion for later and look forward to the time when I get to do this hike! Sounds like you also had a pretty delicious menu!
Ah, that’s too bad. It was a great experience for us. Hopefully you’ll get the chance to do it. After days of hiking, there is something really special about turning the corner and seeing the city for the first time. Thanks for stopping by!
Your article was very interesting, and I have been wanting to do this climb for so long. I just don’t know who to contact. It sounds like you all were very happy with the company you chose. Would you let me know who you went through? Thank you so much!
This sounds like an amazing experience. Thanks for sharing what it’s like for those of us who haven’t had the opportunity yet.
It was a great time! It’s such an interesting place. It lives up to all the hype!
Great pictures guys! I’ve wanted to go to Machu Picchu for as long as I’ve known it existed… I’ll get around to it soon I hop – Just seeing your snaps makes me want to do it right NOW!
It’s definitely one of the better treks out there! 😉
Wow – thanks so much for posting this! We’ve just booked in to do the Inca Trail next year and now we know what to expect. Looks amazing =)
The more accounts of Machu Picchu I read, the more jealous I become. Sounds incredible. Thanks for sharing your time so I could live through your experience.
I’d love to know who you went with for the hike. I’m thinking about doing the Lares Trail and I’ve heard if you just show up in Cuzco you can get some good deals but I’d still like a reputable company.
We went with GAP Adventures. They are by far the best option on the Inca Trail. They’ve got a great rep with the locals and treat the porters well (in comparison to some of the other operations we saw). They are on the more expensive side though, so you get what you pay for. It really comes down to the food and camping equipment. A bad meal or rough sleep can make for a tough afternoon!
As for Lares Trek, we had a friend do it. He really enjoyed it. You need to book ahead for Inca Trail as they only offer so many passes per day (I think its about 250 tourists per day). The Inca Trail is the only one that actually ends at Machu Picchu. The other options typically have you spend the night in Aquas Calientes the night before. You then take a bus up to the entrance of Machu Picchu.
Amazing!!! I didn’t have time to hike it, but I went on New Year’ Eve to MP and it was unforgettable. I’d love to return and do the hike though. CONGRATS!!!
Somehow I missed this post when you put it up, but luckily I found it now through your comment on Adam Seper’s blog. Reading about your hike makes us so excited for the Inca Trail!! I think we’ll definitely do that trail, because of the other ruins. Did you pay the same price that Adam paid?
I’m not sure what Adam paid but we went with GAP Adventures so it was likely a bit more expensive. At the end of the day, the difference between top quality and super cheap is about $200. I’d recommend going with a reputable company and pay the little bit extra for better food and equipment – you’ll be glad you did!
This adventure sounds awesome, would anyone know where i can start to plan a trip like this? Are there any guided tours for this, preferably one with setting up camp as in the pictures above. Thanks!!! – Ken
gap adven – read the post. duh thanks!
Sounds like some excellent treatment from the porters! I took the train instead of doing the hike. I remember the train stopped in this desolate place and the brave hikers go off to wait for their guide…the look on their faces was priceless. I don’t think they realized what they had gotten themselves into. 😀
We had a friend recently hike to Machu Picchu (last week or the week before?). I hope one day we can make it there too! Looks like an awesome hike!
I made the pilgrimage to Machu Picchu, but took the easy route: the train to Aqua Calientes. You’ve inspired me to grab my boots (ok, I don’t have boots…yet) and make the trek ASAP.
Wow, what a great story. I can’t wait to hike the Inca Trail with my boyfriend one day. Every year we say that this will be the year we hike it, but the opportunity has yet to arise. We will one day though, that I know for sure. Thanks for the tips, will definitely remember them when we go.
Hopefully you get a chance to experience the hike and Machu Picchu. It was one of our most memorable travel experiences to date!
After reading your story, I do not look forward to my hike of the Inca Trail. Have a few questions.
1. Did you train before the hike? ie. cardio, stair climbs…etc?
2. Did you find the air hard to breathe? Did you take any attitude sickness pills?
I am actually scared now of Day 2 and Day 3.
Hi Karen,
To answer your questions:
1. No, we did no training prior to the hike. We are in fairly good condition, but by no means are we athletes!
2. We did not find it hard to breathe but we did take altitude sickness pills (I think). The key is to drink a lot of water and take it slow.
The hike is challenging, but it is totally doable. We loved it, but there were definitely times when we were cursing!
Hi
My husband and I are planning to go next summer. We are planning take our sons, who will just have turned 10 and 13. Did you see any kids on the trail? Both hike in the Rockies so have some experience.
Also can you book with G Adventures just for the Inca trail portion? Do you know if they take younger kids?
Thanks. Our trip to South America is definitely more challenging to plan with kids then when we went to Central America without.
Hi,
I would be really interested in knowing about the kids on this trail. I have an 11 years old daughter.
Tania, did you go and did you take your sons with you?
Cam, Nickole, will you be able to answer Tania questions, please!
Thanks!
We did not see any kids on the trail. It really depends on the fitness level of your kids, I would guess. It’s not an easy hike and the altitude will play a role, so I’m not comfortable making a recommendation for children.
Looks like you had a blast! We opted to hike in for the day and still had a great time. aren’t you glad you accomplished this pre-baby? 😉
I have always wanted to go take this hike, but life happens :). Thanks for your article. Gives a good read. Just one question – did you take a ride back or it was again a 4 day hike on the way back?
The Inca Trail is the most mythical and mystical trek of all, four days of trekking that gives you an incomparable experience, such as reaching the Puerta del Sol (Intipunku) or the first panoramic view of Machu Picchu.
Well, although there are hundreds of beautiful walks in Peru, this is the only one that comes directly to Machu Picchu. Other alternative and popular treks are the Salkantay our Salcantay and Lares; The first reaches the hydroelectric and then Machu Picchu Pueblo, below the citadel; And the second arrives in Ollantaytambo, from where the train leaves.
I went to Bolivia and Peru with my daughter in 2003. We first went to Santa Cruz, Bolivia where we helped put together hygiene kits, painted their school and filled it with books. The children were so excited to receive them it was like Christmas. Big beautiful smiling faces brought tears of joy to our eyes!!
We then flew to Peru were we hiked the Inca Trail to get to Machu Picchu ! It was breathtaking, I have never seen anything like it. It was ingenious, mysterious, a fantasy. The Inca Gods blessed us to be able to make the journey as 2 years before I had been in a serious auto accident breaking my back in 3 places, 230 stitches on my head, fractures pelvic, amputated finger. What an adventure – wouldn’t trade it for anything!!!! The only downfall was seeing a pigs head in the middle of the dining table. Shelly Klomp,
St. George, Utah
What an amazing experience! Before doing the 5 days Inca Trail last year I spent a looot of time to read about all the possible routes to Machu Picchu and there were way too many available options. In the end I chose an extended version of the Inca Trail with an extra day to do the trek so that we can go at a slower rhythm and I don’t regret a single thing. Our guide Elizabeth was really great and made our trip super fun.
Btw, I really felt sorry to read about the people that didn’t made it to the trek because of the bad food in Cusco. We had a sit down 2 days prior to our trek with the guide and she advised us in advance not to eat any street food before a trek…I guess she was right.