My Return to the Camino: What I'm doing Different this time

My Return to the Camino de Santiago

The Camino is calling me back! After completing a section of the Camino Frances last April (I started in Leon), I will return to the Camino to complete the Portugués Litoral route.

My plan is to start in Porto, Portugal, and walk 13 days along the coast to Santiago de Compostela.

When I returned home after completing my Camino last year, I felt like the journey was unfinished. In fact, it felt more like a whole new journey had just begun.

I can see myself returning to the Camino de Santiago again and again, to walk its many different routes. But let’s not get ahead of things. First, I must complete the next task at hand.

Why am I returning to the Camino?

I’ve been asked this question a lot since announcing that I will return to the Camino de Santiago.

There are many reasons why I want to walk the Camino again. However, I think the main reason is because I really enjoy the solo adventure and freedom that the Camino provides.

In this blog post, I wrote about why I chose to walk the Camino in the first place. Many of those reasons are still valid.

I find myself missing the yellow arrows, the sore feet and tired legs, the singing birds in the morning, the church bells, the simple conversations with strangers, and the peaceful time on the trail.

Walking the Camino introduced me to a whole new way to travel. It’s changed my perspective about what I want from my future travel experiences.

Camino Portugués Litoral Route

Did you know that there are several different Camino routes? I’ve read there are upwards of 250+ officially recognized Camino routes.

The most popular is the Camino Frances (The French Way). This route starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France (learn more here). This is the route that I did last year (read about that here).

The second most popular route is the Camino Portugués (The Portuguese Way). This route begins in Lisbon and travels north to Porto, which is where I will start my Camino.

I’m excited to return to Porto. It’s one of my favourite cities in Europe. Read this blog post that shares photos of Porto, Portugal.

From Porto, there are 3 different routes: Central Route (The Traditional Way), Coastal Route, and Senda Litoral (Literal Coastal Path), with an optional Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual).

Many pilgrims choose to start the Porto section on the Coastal Route before walking inland to the Central Route. There are multiple paths that connect these two main routes.

My plan is to walk up the Atlantic coast on the Litoral route from Porto to Baiona. I will then walk inland to connect with the Central route at Redondela.

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What will I do differently this time?

Let me start by saying that there is no right or wrong way to do the Camino. That’s one of the things that makes it so attractive.

However, there are a few things that I plan to do differently on this return to the Camino.

Different route, different country

The most obvious difference is the route that I am taking. Instead of starting in Leon, Spain, I’m starting in Porto, Portugal.

The distance is similar (approx. 300km). But the landscapes will be very different.

Stay in shared dorm rooms at albergues

I stayed at a few albergues on my last trip, but in private rooms. I’m a light sleeper and I don’t like the idea of sharing a room with strangers, for a variety of reasons.

This time, I plan to shake things up and sleep in the shared dorm rooms. I’m not sure how it will go. I wake up easily and can get cranky when I’m tired.

Many pilgrims I’ve spoken with love staying in the albergue dorm rooms. They say it’s an essential part of the Camino experience.

I’m going to take their word and give it a try. I will also mix in some hotel rooms, too.

Book my accommodations

On my last Camino, I used a travel booking service to sort out my accommodations. I did a lot of research and it made me very indecisive about where to stay. So I asked for help.

It was the right decision for that trip. I’m glad I didn’t have to think about finding a place to sleep each day.

However, after a few days on the trail, it became clear that I can easily find and book accommodations.

This time, I will book my accommodations instead of using a service. I already have the first few days organized. Booking.com has many private albergues and budget hotels available, so I plan to book accommodations one or two days in advance.

Create space for spontaneity

Building on the point above; one of the downsides to having your entire route planned with accommodations is that it removes spontaneity.

There were days when I wanted to keep going, but I had the hotel already booked. My itinerary was not flexible, which was not ideal.

This time, I only have the first few nights booked. After that, I will go with the flow.

Carry everything in my backpack (no luggage transfer)

I took advantage of the luggage transfer on my last Camino. Each morning, I would leave my bag at the front desk when I left. Magically, it would be waiting for me when I arrived at the next destination.

It’s easy to do this luggage transfer when you know where your next hotel or albergue will be.

Because I want to create space for spontaneity, I need to have my belongings with me. Therefore, everything I bring will be carried on my back.

I plan to travel very light. See photos and video of my packing list here.

Slow my pace. Enjoy the beach and coastal landscapes

Last time, I was heavily focused on my daily walking goals (distance and time). I got up early and walked with a good pace. It worked fine, but I often arrived at my next destination too early.

This time, I want to slow down and take more breaks. It’s another reason why I chose to do the Portugués Litoral Route. The beaches and coastal landscapes look spectacular.

I plan to take my time and enjoy the views instead of walking really fast to my next hotel.

Spend more time with strangers

People walk the Camino for a variety of reasons. In many cases, it’s because they’re processing unwanted change; the loss of a loved one, a divorce or break-up, a career change or retirement, heath issues, etc.

On my last walk, I was processing a lot of change. I wanted time to be alone, to think and breathe. Because of this, I did not have many real connections with pilgrims. This was intentional.

During this return to the Camino, I want to engage with my fellow pilgrims. I plan to open up and seek conversation, instead of spending most of my time alone (And, I’m also looking forward to the solitude!).

My general plan for the Portuguese Camino

I will spend my first night in Porto at the airport. It’s a long flight from Vancouver and I know I will be tired when I arrive. So I got a cheap hotel within steps of the airport.

The following morning, I will take the metro from the airport to the city centre. I will walk to Porto Cathedral, get my stamp, and start my Camino from there (less than 24 hours after arriving in Portugal).

Below is my general plan. This is based on walking about 20-25km per day.

Downtown Porto to Labruge (Praia de Angeiras)
Labruge to Aguçadoura (Povoa de Varzim)
Aguçadoura to Marinhas (or Esposende)
Marinhas to Viana do Castelo
Viana do Castelo to Caminha (or A Guarda)
Caminha to Viladesuso (or Oia)
Viladesuso to Patos or Saiáns (Baiona or Vigo)
Arrive at Redondela
Redondela to Pontevedra
Pontevedra to A Armenteira (Spiritual Variant) or Caldas de Reis (Central Route)
Either Vilanova de Arousa (Spiritual Variant) or Padron (Central Route)
Arrive at Santiago de Compostela (Central Route) or somewhere after Padron (Spiritual Variant)
Arrive at Santiago de Compostela (Spiritual Variant)
Bus from Santiago de Compostela to Porto
Extra day in Port before returning home

I expect this general itinerary will change as I get deeper into the walk.

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Are you planning to walk the Camino de Santiago?

Leave a comment below if you have any questions.

My Return to the Camino: What I’m doing Different this time

My Return to the Camino de Santiago

Related post: Thoughts after walking the Camino de Santiago

Why am I returning to the Camino?

Related post: Beginner’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago

Camino Portugués Litoral Route

Follow my Camino in real time on Facebook and Instagram.